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Help:FAQ (view source)

Revision as of 08:26, 27 May 2015

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To enter one of the menus you have to wait until the unit did perform the self test and did fully initialize: The Status LED must get blue or purple and the cycling LEDs A to G and H to N must have stopped.

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Factory reset only can be performed when being within Setup menu. So you have at least to get to Setup menu point '''A''' (or later), release the button and then push it and keep it pushed for at least 10 seconds. Note that factory reset will only revert all parameters of parameter menu and setup menu to default. It has no influence on receiver menu parameters. If the unit does not initialize due to wrong receiver setting the factory reset will not help. In such case also have a look here.

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Factory reset only can be performed when being within Setup menu. So you have at least to get to Setup menu point '''A''' (or later), release the button and then push it and keep it pushed for at least 10 seconds. Note that factory reset will only revert all parameters of parameter menu and setup menu to default. It has no influence on receiver menu parameters. If the unit does not initialize due to wrong receiver setting the factory reset will not help. In such case also have a look here.

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===Selection in the menus with the rudder control stick does not work.===

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* Receiver type "Standard": Check that the connector for the rudder channel (orange wire) is inserted correctly in the receiver.

* Is the correct stick moved? Check stick mode of transmitter and have a look at the servo monitor. Is there any movement on the channel that you have connected the orange wire for rudder function to (Receiver type "Standard")?

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* Serial-wire receiver: Was the rudder channel assigned for rudder function at [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Receiver_setup_menu_B|receiver setup menu]]?

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* Serial-wire receiver: Was the rudder channel assigned for rudder function at [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Receiver_setup_menu_B|receiver setup menu]]?

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===Setup menu points B to D - What are frequency and neutral pulse for a specific servo?===

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~~'''NOTE:'''~~ This procedure can lead to damage and severe injury if not obtaining safety rules.

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{{WARNING_QUOTE|This procedure can lead to damage and severe injury if not obtaining safety rules. If you want to be on the safe side go with 65Hz unless the manufacturer doesn't give you another classification. We cannot tell you the specs of a servo unless we don't have any data of this specific servo ourselves. Please ask the servos' manufacturer. We do not produce or sell any servos, we only give you the possibility to use those servos. Therefore we do not accept liability for incorrect setting.}}

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If you want to be on the safe side go with 65Hz unless the manufacturer doesn't give you another classification.

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We cannot tell you the specs of a servo unless we don't have any data of this specific servo ourselves. Please ask

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the servos' manufacturer. We do not produce or sell any servos, we only give you the possibility to use those

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servos. Therefore we do not accept liability for incorrect setting.

===Setup menu points B to D - My servos are not on the website's servo list. Can I use them anyway?===

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The servo list on the website only is a collection of some servos' data. It does not say that if a servo is not on the list that you must not use it. If a servo is not on the list we simply did not test it ourselves or we could not find any data about it. Also we can't know any servo on the market. In fact ~~Microbeast is~~ compatible to nearly any servo on the market. Anyhow when choosing a servo for your flybarless helicopter ~~you should~~ note this: [[Servos for flybarless usage]]

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The servo list on the website only is a collection of some servos' data. It does not say that if a servo is not on the list that you must not use it. If a servo is not on the list we simply did not test it ourselves or we could not find any data about it. Also we can't know any servo on the market. In fact the BEASTX flybarless devices are compatible to nearly any servo on the market. Anyhow, when choosing a servo for your flybarless helicopter please note this topic: [[Servos for flybarless usage]].

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===Setup menu point E - How to get servo horn to a 90 degrees angle?===

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Do not trim the rudder servo by using the transmitter as this will apply a constant rotation command to the unit! When you can't get the servo horn exactly 90 degrees this has no significant effect. The "90 degrees rule" only should give some good basis for initial linkage adjustment. In flight the system will control the servo all the time anyway, so it is not an issue if the center position is slightly offset.

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It is more important, that the tail servo linkage is in general adjusted correctly, so that you get asymmetric tail pitch throw: 40 degrees against main rotor torque direction, approx. 6 degrees at center position and 20 degrees in main rotor torque direction.

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It is more important, that the tail servo linkage is in general adjusted correctly, so that you get asymmetric tail pitch throw: 40 degrees against main rotor torque direction, approx. 6 degrees at center position and 20 degrees in main rotor torque direction.

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===Setup menu point J - Adjust left or right or both directions? ===

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You only have to adjust one direction, whether it's left or right, it doesn't matter. Important is to exactly adjust 6° when the blades are aligned on the aileron axis as this teaches the unit the servo throw. Push the aileron stick to adjust the pitch and when the blade pitch is 6° simply push the button briefly and that's it.

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You only have to adjust one direction, whether it's left or right, it doesn't matter. Important is to exactly adjust 6° when the blades are aligned on the aileron axis as this teaches the unit the servo throw. Push the aileron stick to adjust the pitch and when the blade pitch is 6° simply push the button briefly and that's it.

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===Setup menu point J - I don't get blue color at 6 degrees===

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Anyhow the color is not a fixed value that is a must to reach. If you get blue you have something similar to 80% usable servo throw. The further you can go the higher the value will be. So everything from blue upwards will give a good resolution and you won't feel any disadvantages. If using good, precise high class servos, strong and with fast speed you even can fly with only red LED without any noticeable difference. Also rotorblades (flybarless blades or not) can make a difference.

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Anyhow, the color is not a fixed value that is a must to reach. If you get blue you have something similar to 80% usable servo throw. The further you can go the higher the value will be. So everything from blue upwards will give a good resolution and you won't feel any disadvantages. If using good, precise high class servos, strong and with fast speed you even can fly with only red LED without any noticeable difference. Also rotorblades (flybarless blades or not) can make a difference.

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On a 250 or 450 size heli you should try to get "dark blue" at exactly 6.0° as here servos normaly are not so precise.

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On a 250 or 450 size heli you should try to get "dark blue" at exactly 6.0° as here servos normaly are not so precise.

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<~~!--T:42--~~>

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MICROBEAST/AR7x00BX: Initially the chase is from A - N. If one step is done the indication light for this step will quit running.

MICROBEAST PLUS: Initially the chase is from H - N (Stick calibration). Only if this step is finished the chase from A - G (Sensor calibration) will start.

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* Sensors damaged. Return the device for repair.

* Power supply voltage is dropping due to weak power supply or damaged servos.

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* Is the correct type of receiver selected in the [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Receiver_setup_intro|receiver setup menu]]? Particularly when using a Spektrum® radio system note that receivers like Spektrum® AR6100, 7000, 9000 etc. are "Standard" receivers! The selection of "Spektrum®" in the receiver setup menu only applies for direct connection of one single Spektrum satellite with the optional available adapter. In general when using a serial-wire receiver check if the Status-LED lights up in "blue" color at [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Receiver_setup_menu_B|Receiver setup menu point '''B''']] indicating there is a valid signal coming from the receiver.

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* When using a Standard receiver check the wiring. Mainly check receiver wires for polarity on both sides and correct plugging (no vertical offset by one pin).

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* MICROBEAST/MICROBEAST PLUS: Check binding between transmitter and receiver.

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* AR7200BX/AR7300BX: Check binding between transmitter and receiver.

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* AR7200BX/AR7300BX: Check binding between transmitter and receiver.

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===The brand new MICROBEAST only shows a red flashing LED or even nothing. What's wrong?===

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* Check assignment of gain channel and adjust the gain in the transmitter as described [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Flying|here]].

* Check for correct wiring or setup of tail gain cable/channel.

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Additionaly when the elevator doesn't seem to work either, maybe the wrong mounting orientation has been selected. So select the correct mounting orientation in Setup menu point '''A'''.

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Additionaly when the elevator doesn't seem to work either, maybe the wrong mounting orientation has been selected. So select the correct mounting orientation in Setup menu point '''A'''.

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===How can I increase rotation rate for aileron, elevator and rudder?===

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The presets at Parameter menu point B are nothing else than different preset dualrate/expo curves inside Microbeast. Choose the preset that fits your preferences best and that gives you a good amount of rotation rate. Using the presets (except for the "Transmitter" preset) it is recommended to not change the output signal in the TX significantly as especially when using expo this will bend, compress or stretch the curves, leading to very strange flight behavior. It just is not like adding 5% of expo as the curves between TX and Microbeast will multiply and not sum together! Anyhow you may do small adjustments in stick throw, i.e. for slightly increasing the roll rate. This will not significantly deform the Microbeast's internal curves.

But easiest thing to do would be to switch flight behaviour to preset blue (="Transmitter") and adjust the curves in your transmitter just as you like. Therefor we suggest to start with a setting of 70% D/R and 25% expo on cylic and 85% D/R and 40% expo on tail in the transmitter and adjust the curves accordingly. When setting parameter B to "blue = TX" the internal curves in Microbeast will be "disabled". Here 100% stick input will give a rotation rate of apprx. 600deg/s on the rudder axis and apprx. 400deg/s for the cyclic movements (this may vary depending on TX brand as any manufacturer use another signal output as maximum, so this also can be 107, 110% or 95%).

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We are often asked which percentages of expo or dual rate corresponds to the different presets. As manufacturers calculate expo curves different, we can't tell you what our preset curves correspond to which TXs expo values as we use our own expo calculation and there is no data available for comparing. We did outfly these values and programmed them in the source code so we can't tell what these are in Futaba or JR percentages. If you want to use a specific preset as your starting point we suggest to connect your MICROBEAST to the StudioX software. Here you can see the different values for each control behavior preset and you can create a custom preset for which you may use the given values and adjust them until they perfectly fit your flying style.

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We are often asked which percentages of expo or dual rate corresponds to the different presets. As manufacturers calculate expo curves different, we can't tell you what our preset curves correspond to which TXs expo values as we use our own expo calculation and there is no data available for comparing. We did outfly these values and programmed them in the source code so we can't tell what these are in Futaba or JR percentages. If you want to use a specific preset as your starting point we suggest to connect your MICROBEAST to the StudioX software. Here you can see the different values for each control behavior preset and you can create a custom preset for which you may use the given values and adjust them until they perfectly fit your flying style.

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* The servo-blade combination is not good. Use faster and stronger servos and/or specific flybarless blades.

* Some linkages aren’t moving smoothly and freely. Check the mechanics for any hard points (ball linkages, blade grips). Check if the dampers are greased and that the thrust bearings in the blade grips are correctly mounted.

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* Imbalance of the main rotor head. Firstly, do not tighten rotor blade bolts to much. The blades must be able to align themselves by centrifugal force. Then check blade balancing and/or try a different set of rotor blades.

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* Imbalance of the main rotor head. Firstly, do not tighten rotor blade bolts to much. The blades must be able to align themselves by centrifugal force. Then check blade balancing and/or try a different set of rotor blades.

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===The tail rotor turns around instantly when doing backwards flying.===

* Tail gyro gain too low. Increase tail gyro gain as described [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Flying|here]] and make sure you're using the tail gyro in HeadingLock mode (using Normal-Rate mode it is nearly impossible to perform backwards maneuvers!).

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* No sufficient thrust produced by the tail rotor. Check tail pitch angles. Reduce the maximum amount of available tail pitch throw at [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Setupmenu_E|Setup menu point '''E''']] to prevent the tail blades from stalling or increase the tail pitch angle if it‘s too small. Use different (larger) tail rotor blades or increase the rotor rpm.

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* No sufficient thrust produced by the tail rotor. Check tail pitch angles. Reduce the maximum amount of available tail pitch throw at [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Setupmenu_E|Setup menu point '''E''']] to prevent the tail blades from stalling or increase the tail pitch angle if it‘s too small. Use different (larger) tail rotor blades or increase the rotor rpm.

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===Helicopter tips over when trying to take off or tilts to one side in flight.===

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: One could also consider a voltage fluctuation of the receiver power supply. It is necessary that this is stable enough, especially in terms of duration and whether the cable cross-sections and the connecting system are of sufficient size. The power supply should be dimensioned at least twice or three times as strong as expected since very high current peaks can occur in milliseconds which make the voltage sag dangerously low. In this context it may happen that the helicopter flies normally for a few minutes and then suddenly turns or rolls away in flight or even after landing the swash plate turns by itself to one direction. This is a sign that the Microbeast made a quick reboot in flight but because of the severity or duration of power failure it could not completely reload all calibration and sensor data. In this case the cause must be found and rectified and it mustn't/shouldn't be flown anymore since the receiving system was apparently close to a total failure.

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* One could also consider a voltage fluctuation of the receiver power supply. It is necessary that this is stable enough, especially in terms of duration and whether the cable cross-sections and the connecting system are of sufficient size. The power supply should be dimensioned at least twice or three times as strong as expected since very high current peaks can occur in milliseconds which make the voltage sag dangerously low. In this context it may happen that the helicopter flies normally for a few minutes and then suddenly turns or rolls away in flight or even after landing the swash plate turns by itself to one direction. This is a sign that the Microbeast made a quick reboot in flight but because of the severity or duration of power failure it could not completely reload all calibration and sensor data. In this case the cause must be found and rectified and it mustn't/shouldn't be flown anymore since the receiving system was apparently close to a total failure.

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{{QUOTE|'''Please do not confuse:''' A slight tilt of the swash plate when the heli is standing on the ground is absolutely normal when the so-called integrators are not fully discharged. Especially when carrying the heli or steering the sticks this can happen as the system tries to perform the necessary commands. But as the helicopter will not move as intended the system tries to keep the servo movement until the helicopter may turn. Only after approx. 30 seconds without moving the helicopter or touching the sticks, the swash will return to its normal position as the systems slowly clears its memory. The exact amount of time for this depends on the position of the thrust stick. In the middle position is the discharge at the fastest. So if possible always keep the thrust stick in center position when the heli is on the ground so that the swash plate stays leveled. Once the helicopter is airborne you will not see any of these effects as now the control loop can operate as intended. As described [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Flying|here]] to center the swashplate you can also move the cyclic stick(s) to full deflection once as this will clear integrator instantly. Only if the swash moves downright by itself to full-stop even after correcting with the sticks and only cycling power off and on resolves this problem, check that your transmitter does not send any unwanted control commands (trimming active, stick pots worn out, ...). If this is not the case please contact support as maybe there is some problem with the sensors then.}}

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==Further observations==

===Why is using MICROBEAST in combination with a single Spektrum Satellite only recommended for helis smaller than 450 size?===

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When using an EU Version of the Spektrum TX we say it is not safe to use a single satellite on anything greater than Trex 450 size as the chassis on larger helis may hide the satellite in different positions. So you will loose direct sight between TX and RX more easily. Additonaly with larger helis typically you fly further away than with small helis, so this doubles the risk of loosing the RF link. When using a US version of the Spektrum radio with 300mW output power this can be different as this radio by default has much higher output power than the EU radios. But as said this also depends on many factors (Where is the satellite placed? Does it give direct sight to the TX in any flight condition? How far do you fly away? Are there obstacles in your flying field like tress or houses? ...). So it's hard to give a definitive limit. That's why we only recommend to use this setup on small helis as this can be considered as safe application.

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When using an EU Version of the Spektrum TX we say it is not safe to use a single satellite on anything greater than Trex 450 size as the chassis on larger helis may hide the satellite in different positions. So you will loose direct sight between TX and RX more easily. Additonaly with larger helis typically you fly further away than with small helis, so this doubles the risk of loosing the RF link. When using a US version of the Spektrum radio with 300mW output power this can be different as this radio by default has much higher output power than the EU radios. But as said this also depends on many factors (Where is the satellite placed? Does it give direct sight to the TX in any flight condition? How far do you fly away? Are there obstacles in your flying field like tress or houses? ...). So it's hard to give a definitive limit. That's why we only recommend to use this setup on small helis as this can be considered as safe application.

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===My servos are getting warm/hot, is this normal?===

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This results to a higher power consumption and a stronger heat generation which is usually not critical. However under adverse conditions this can reach a critical range (e.g. at very high air temperatures or even if the servos are installed near other heat sources such as electric motors). In this case try reducing the driving frequency and/or the input voltage.

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This results to a higher power consumption and a stronger heat generation which is usually not critical. However under adverse conditions this can reach a critical range (e.g. at very high air temperatures or even if the servos are installed near other heat sources such as electric motors). In this case try reducing the driving frequency and/or the input voltage.

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===Servos react somehow "notchy" at high frame rate. Is MICROBEAST damaging my servos?===

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From MICROBEAST ~~firmware~~ version V2.0.0 onwards a special ~~software filter~~ was installed which slightly mitigates these rough servo movements.

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From MICROBEAST software version V2.0.0 onwards a special filtering algorithm was installed which slightly mitigates these rough servo movements.

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===Why do the swashplate servos run very slowly when testing on the bench?===

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This is absolutely normal. The movement of the stick gives the MICROBEAST only a command to control the helicopter. The sticks do no longer control the servos directly. So you cannot say exactly what the MICROBEAST will do with the servos when you push one of the sticks.

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This is absolutely normal. The movement of the stick gives the MICROBEAST only a command to control the helicopter. The sticks do no longer control the servos directly. So you cannot say exactly what the MICROBEAST will do with the servos when you push one of the sticks.

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Help:FAQ (view source)

Revision as of 08:26, 27 May 2015

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