Help:FAQ Spektrum/de: Difference between revisions
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== | ==General questions== | ||
=== | ===The AR7200BX that came with my Blade helicopter is not supported in StudioX=== | ||
AR7200BX with special Blade firmware on can't be programmed using StudioX as they are configured specifically for the helicopter they are installed on. Nevertheless, you can update the firmware using StudioX and make a "full" AR7200BX out of it, so that it can be used with StudioX. But note that you’ll have to use the original AR7200BX manual to setup the device in future. A factory reset will NOT revert to the Blade preset then!<br /> | |||
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To keep your existing Blade settings it it important to update to firmware version 3.1.0 only, as this will not delete your setup. Once 3.1.0 is uploaded to the device, it will be recognized by StudioX and you can create restore points, change settings and more. So create a restore point of your device and then update to 4.0.14, if necessary. Updating to version 4.0.14 will reset your settings as 4.0.14 uses a new parameter set. But as you have created a restore point before, you can recover your setup and only have to setup the additional governor parameters.!<br /> | |||
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=== | ===Which servos can be used with AR7200BX/AR7300BX/AR7210BX=== | ||
A rule of thumb to find well suited servos for you flybarless helicopter: '''As strong as necessary, as fast as possible, with less dead band as available.'''<br /> | |||
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</ | Servo torque in kg/cm should be at least 3-4 times the heli weight (in kilogram). Speed should be at least 0.1s/45°. The faster the better. In addition the servo should be very precise, have little gear backlash and a low dead band. And of course it should be a digital servo that supports high frame rates (200Hz or more). Also using special heli servos which are designed for maximum vibration resistance is a good choice.<br /> | ||
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Note that all the speed is useless if the torque is not enough. In doubt when two servos of a series are only slightly different in speed and torque, normally the more powerful is in advantage.<br /> | |||
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Anyhow, if in doubt ask the manufacturer of the servo if it can be used in combination with flybarless/gyro systems. Not all servos can handle the additional stress of getting different control signals every few milliseconds. Also it must be said that not all servos can be used at maximum frequency even if so it is told on the servo's data sheet. Depending on air temperature, voltage level and heli size it is possible that servos can not be driven at their limit as the servo motor or electronics may heat up too much.'<br /> | |||
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== | ==Initialisierung== | ||
=== | ===The SPEKTRUM AR7200BX / AR7210BX / AR7300BX does not finish initialization. What can I do?=== | ||
Watch the running LED lights during the init phase: If the lights A - G light up the sensor's rest positions are being calibrated, H - N show determining the RC channels and their center positions.<br /> | |||
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AR7200BX / AR7300BX: | AR7200BX / AR7300BX: Initially the chase is from A - N. If one step is done the indication light for this step will quit running.<br /> | ||
AR7210BX: | AR7210BX: Initially the chase is from H - N (Stick calibration). Only if this step is finished the chase from A - G (Sensor calibration) will start.<br /> | ||
Die Sequenz '''A''' - '''G''' wird nicht beendet | Die Sequenz '''A''' - '''G''' wird nicht beendet | ||
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Hier stellen wir eine Liste mit gesammelten Servodaten zur Verfügung: [[The_BEASTX_servo_list/de|Die BEASTX Servoliste]] | Hier stellen wir eine Liste mit gesammelten Servodaten zur Verfügung: [[The_BEASTX_servo_list/de|Die BEASTX Servoliste]] | ||
This list is not intended to be complete or accurate! Please ask the servos manufacturer about his recommendations regarding servo specs and usability in helicopters with flybarless systems. | |||
* | * Neutral impulse: The neutral impulse normally is 1500-1520µs on any servo. Only special high speed rudder servos use a different impulse and are normally fitted to a specific gyro (i.e. Futaba gyros 760µs, Logictec gyros 960µs). AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX supports all types of different neutral impulses for the rudder servo. On cyclic you are not able to adjust the pulse. | ||
* Ansteuerfrequenz: Je höher die Ansteuerfrequenz umso öfter wird die Regelung neue Berechnungen durchführen und Steuersignale an die Servos schicken. Dadurch wird das System im Ergebnis präziser und besser arbeiten. Dies führt allerdings auch zu einer höheren Belastung bei den Servos, da sie mehr Arbeit leisten müssen. Damit erhöht sich der Stromverbrauch und die Hitzeentwicklung, da die Servomotoren öfter die Position wechseln werden! | * Ansteuerfrequenz: Je höher die Ansteuerfrequenz umso öfter wird die Regelung neue Berechnungen durchführen und Steuersignale an die Servos schicken. Dadurch wird das System im Ergebnis präziser und besser arbeiten. Dies führt allerdings auch zu einer höheren Belastung bei den Servos, da sie mehr Arbeit leisten müssen. Damit erhöht sich der Stromverbrauch und die Hitzeentwicklung, da die Servomotoren öfter die Position wechseln werden! | ||
: | : If using a digital servo it definitely should be capable of more than 65Hz. So if we have a unknown servo we carefully increase frame rate step by step by testing on the workbench and then fly shortly and check servo temperature very often. If there are no abnormalities like extreme heat production we again increase the frame rate and again test carefully.<br /> | ||
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=== | ===Setup menu point G - I did adjust my swash plate with servos centered but when leaving point G the servos are not centered anymore.=== | ||
''' | '''At Setup menu point G make sure you adjust your mechanical setup while electric trimming is active (Status LED is lit up in some color)!''' You mustn't do any adjustment while the system shows "reference position" (Status LED off at step G). This is only for finding the servos' true center positions (i.e. for attaching the servo arms to the servos) but is not used in any other way. If your servo arms are perfectly aligned in this position check electrical trimming anyway and readjust if necessary. Only the servo positions you see in trim mode (when the Status LED is lit up in some color at Setup step G) show the center positions that are used later onwards during setup and in operation as trimming will always be added to the servo output! | ||
===Setupmenü Punkt J - In welche Richtung soll ich die 6 Grad einstellen?=== | ===Setupmenü Punkt J - In welche Richtung soll ich die 6 Grad einstellen?=== | ||
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=== | ===Setup menu point J - I don't get blue color at 6 degrees=== | ||
When getting the 6° too early this shows that you may not use full servo resolution (not using the full throw). This can be solved by using longer blade grip linkage arms, reducing the swashplate inner diameter (shorter linkage balls) or larger swashplate outer diameter (longer linkage balls). Or simply by screwing the linkage balls on the servo horns further in (but this will reduce both cyclic and collective - the cyclic/collective ratio will not change). | |||
Anyhow, the color is not a fixed value that is a must to reach. If you get blue you have something similar to 80% usable servo throw. The further you can go the higher the value will be. So everything from blue upwards will give a good resolution and you won't feel any disadvantages. If using good, precise high class servos, strong and with fast speed you even can fly with only red LED without any noticeable difference. Also rotorblades (flybarless blades or not) can make a difference. | |||
On a 250 or 450 size heli you should try to get "dark blue" at exactly 6.0° as here servos normally are not so precise.<br /> | |||
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== | ==In flight== | ||
===The gyro sensors do not seem to work correctly.=== | ===The gyro sensors do not seem to work correctly.=== | ||
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===Der Heli rollt/dreht sich nicht schnell genug bei vollem Steuerknüppelausschlag. Kann man dies verbessern?=== | ===Der Heli rollt/dreht sich nicht schnell genug bei vollem Steuerknüppelausschlag. Kann man dies verbessern?=== | ||
The rotation speed of the helicopter is only determined by the length of the stick output signal. The gyros measure the actual rotation rate and the system will move the helicopter as fast as it is determined by the stick position. So simply increasing/decreasing the stick throw (mostly done by increasing/decreasing servo throw or using DualRate in the TX for the specified function) will increase/decrease rotation rate. Note that the rotation rate in first line has nothing to do with your cyclic pitch adjustments at Setup menu points J or L and also has nothing to do with the cyclic pitch when steering cyclic on the ground! In flight the system will automatically control the pitch as it is necessary to maintain the given rate. So always setup the cyclic pitch as mentioned in the manual and do not rely on what you see when moving the sticks on the ground. | |||
The presets at Parameter menu point B are nothing else than different preset DualRate/Expo curves inside the device. Choose the preset that fits your preferences best and that gives you a good amount of rotation rate. Using the presets (except for the "Transmitter" preset) it is recommended to not change the output signal in the TX significantly as especially when using expo this will bend, compress or stretch the curves, leading to very strange flight behavior. It just is not like adding 5% of expo as the curves between TX and AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX will multiply and not sum together! Anyhow you may do small adjustments in stick throw, i.e. for slightly increasing the roll rate. This will not significantly deform the internal curves of AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX. | |||
But easiest thing to do would be to switch flight behavior to preset blue (="Transmitter") and adjust the curves in your transmitter just as you like. Therefor we suggest to start with a setting of 70% D/R and 25% expo on cyclic and 85% D/R and 40% expo on tail in the transmitter and adjust the curves accordingly. When setting parameter B to "blue = TX" the internal curves will be "disabled". Here 100% stick input will give a rotation rate of apprx. 600deg/s on the rudder axis and apprx. 400deg/s for the cyclic movements (this may vary depending on TX brand as any manufacturer use another signal output as maximum, so this also can be 107, 110% or 95%). | |||
We are often asked which percentages of expo or dual rate corresponds to the different presets. As manufacturers calculate expo curves different, we can't tell you what our preset curves correspond to which TXs expo values as we use our own expo calculation and there is no data available for comparing. We did out fly these values and programmed them in the source code so we can't tell what these are in Futaba or JR percentages. If you want to use a specific preset as your starting point we suggest to connect your AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX to the StudioX software. Here you can see the different values for each control behavior preset and you can create a custom preset for which you may use the given values and adjust them until they perfectly fit your flying style.<br /> | |||
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{{QUOTE|''' | {{QUOTE|'''Note for AR7200BX/Ar7300BX (not AR7210BX):''' If Parameter menu point '''B''' is set to preset "blue" and the tail gain is switched to heading lock mode you can see in operation mode by the Status LED state at which tail stick position the maximum possible rotation rate on rudder will be reached: At that specific tail stick position the Status LED will start to flash. Moving the stick to this point in flight the rotation rate of the helicopter will be as high as the gyro can control. Increasing the stick throw further the LED will go off. At this point the rate control is switched off and the rudder axis will spin uncontrolled. Here the only limit is the tail pitch throw and normally the tail will spin ultra fast. This can be used for performing tail slides or turns with very fast spinning tail. For normal flying around you should not use this as you may accidentally steer into the uncontrolled area and the tail may spin too fast or very uneven. So please check on the ground that the Status LED will not go off when giving full rudder stick deflection in your default flight modes.}}<br /> | ||
=== | ===The helicopter wobbles on aileron and elevator axis.=== | ||
'' | ''Reducing the swashplate gain does not help to suppress this effect completely.''<br /> | ||
<br /> | * The helicopter's linkage ratio is not suitable for flybarless usage. In Setup menu point J adjust the cyclic pitch to exactly 6 degrees and make sure the color of the Status-LED lights up “blue”. If this is not the case change the mechanical linkage ratio of the helicopter (i.e. by moving the linkage balls further inwards on the servo horns, by mounting longer linkage balls on the swash plate outer ring or by mounting shorter linkage balls on the swash plate inner ring). | ||
* The servo-blade combination is not good. Use faster and stronger servos and/or specific flybarless blades. | |||
* | * Some linkages aren’t moving smoothly and freely. Check the mechanics for any hard points (ball linkages, blade grips). Check if the dampers are greased and that the thrust bearings in the blade grips are correctly mounted. | ||
* | * Imbalance of the main rotor head. Firstly, do not tighten rotor blade bolts to much. The blades must be able to align themselves by centrifugal force. Then check blade balancing and/or try a different set of rotor blades.<br /> | ||
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* Montieren Sie die Hauptrotorblätter ab und lassen Sie den Heli am Boden ohne Rotorblätter in allen Drehzahbereichen laufen. VORSICHT vor den rotierenden Teilen! Auch hier muss die Taumelscheibe sauber hoch und runter laufen. Beginnt sie sich bei einer bestimmten Drehzahl langsam in eine Richtung zu neigen und wird dies abhängig von der Drehzahl stärker oder schwächer so liegt ein Vibrationsproblem vor das die Sensorik im Microbeast verwirrt. Verwendung eines anderen Klebepads könnte helfen oder Montage des MICROBEAST an einem anderen Ort. Vor allem im Elektroheli bringt das aber in den meisten Fällen nichts und der Fehler liegt irgendwo am Heli. | * Montieren Sie die Hauptrotorblätter ab und lassen Sie den Heli am Boden ohne Rotorblätter in allen Drehzahbereichen laufen. VORSICHT vor den rotierenden Teilen! Auch hier muss die Taumelscheibe sauber hoch und runter laufen. Beginnt sie sich bei einer bestimmten Drehzahl langsam in eine Richtung zu neigen und wird dies abhängig von der Drehzahl stärker oder schwächer so liegt ein Vibrationsproblem vor das die Sensorik im Microbeast verwirrt. Verwendung eines anderen Klebepads könnte helfen oder Montage des MICROBEAST an einem anderen Ort. Vor allem im Elektroheli bringt das aber in den meisten Fällen nichts und der Fehler liegt irgendwo am Heli. | ||
: | : This can be: slightly bent hub of the tail rotor, jammed or defective ball bearings, tail blades / tail rotor is not properly balanced, engine bell not balanced / comes at a certain speed to vibrate or motor bearings damaged making the motor shaft vibrate, slipped ball bearings in the torque tube tail drive system or installed in the wrong position, main gear wobbles / unbalanced; motor shaft bends and runs rough, ... actually everything that rotates on the helicopter can be the cause of such a vibration. On electric helicopter you normally should not hear, feel or see any mayor vibration (no vibrating tail fin or skids). Then it should normally be possible to attach the AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX only with a very thin adhesive pad on electric helis. On nitro helis the situation can be slightly different as the motors do shake the more or less. This can lead to shaking of the AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX device itself and will make the rotor pane wobble. So here trying different pads or a sandwich made of two pads and a metal plate may help to stabilize the unit better. Also the wiring can be the cause of such a shaking. But when the swash tilts as explained above the cause normally is some very high frequent (abnormal) vibration and trying around with different kinds of gyro pads only disguises the real cause and may not help 100%. | ||
* Wenn die Bewegung sehr abrupt und plötzlich auftritt ähnlich einer Funkstörung, dann kann es sich auch um eine Form von elektrostatischer Entladung handeln, typischerweise verursacht durch den Zahnriemen vom Heckantrieb. Sorgen Sie hier für einen Potentialausgleich, indem sämtliche stromleitende Teile des Chassis (Heckrohr, CFK-Seitenteile, Motorplatte) miteinander leitend verbunden werden. Gegen statische Aufladung kann im übrigen auch das Behandeln des Heckriemens mit Graphitspray helfen oder die Verwendung eines Riemens aus anderem Material, sowie die Änderung der Riemenspannung. | * Wenn die Bewegung sehr abrupt und plötzlich auftritt ähnlich einer Funkstörung, dann kann es sich auch um eine Form von elektrostatischer Entladung handeln, typischerweise verursacht durch den Zahnriemen vom Heckantrieb. Sorgen Sie hier für einen Potentialausgleich, indem sämtliche stromleitende Teile des Chassis (Heckrohr, CFK-Seitenteile, Motorplatte) miteinander leitend verbunden werden. Gegen statische Aufladung kann im übrigen auch das Behandeln des Heckriemens mit Graphitspray helfen oder die Verwendung eines Riemens aus anderem Material, sowie die Änderung der Riemenspannung. | ||
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==Anderweitige Fragestellungen== | ==Anderweitige Fragestellungen== | ||
=== | ===My servos are getting warm/hot, is this normal?=== | ||
Similar to a tail gyro a flybarless system is constantly working and correcting. So the servos are moving much more frequently than if they're controlled manually. Additionally to that the servos are usually driven with higher frequency to enable the system giving commands to the servos as often and quick as possible. And because of the abolition of mixing levers and the support of the auxiliary rotor plane the servos have to resist higher forces in flight. | |||
Dies führt neben einem höheren Stromverbrauch auch zu einer stärkeren Wärmeentwickling der Servos die im Normalfall aber unkritisch ist. Allerdings kann diese Erwärmung unter ungünstigen Bedingungen auch in einen kritischen Bereich kommen z.B. bei sehr hohen Lufttemperaturen oder wenn die Servos in der Nähe von anderen Hitzequellen wie Elektromotoren verbaut sind. Abhilfe schaffen eine Reduzierung der Ansteuerfrequenz sowie Reduzierung der Eingangsspannung. Dies führt allerdings immer auch zu einem schlechteren Wirkungsgrad der Regelung!<br /> | Dies führt neben einem höheren Stromverbrauch auch zu einer stärkeren Wärmeentwickling der Servos die im Normalfall aber unkritisch ist. Allerdings kann diese Erwärmung unter ungünstigen Bedingungen auch in einen kritischen Bereich kommen z.B. bei sehr hohen Lufttemperaturen oder wenn die Servos in der Nähe von anderen Hitzequellen wie Elektromotoren verbaut sind. Abhilfe schaffen eine Reduzierung der Ansteuerfrequenz sowie Reduzierung der Eingangsspannung. Dies führt allerdings immer auch zu einem schlechteren Wirkungsgrad der Regelung!<br /> | ||
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=== | ===Servos react somehow "notchy" at high frame rate. Is AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX damaging my servos?=== | ||
If the servos are approved by the manufacturer for the chosen update frequency, this is a normal effect. The servos get new positioning signals four times faster than if they are connected to a conventional remote control receiver. Especially servos with brushless motors run very hard and direct which causes slightly jerky movements in modes with high servo frame rate. This is totally harmless to the servos and you will not notice in flight operation.<br /> | |||
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===Warum laufen die Taumelscheibenservos nur sehr langsam im Stand?=== | ===Warum laufen die Taumelscheibenservos nur sehr langsam im Stand?=== | ||