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Line 121: − <br /> − − ==Startup== − − ===MICROBEAST does not finish initialization. What can I do?=== − Watch the running LED lights during the init phase: If the lights A - G light up the sensor's rest positions are beeing calibrated, H - N show determining the RC channels and their center positions. − MICROBEAST/AR7x00BX: Initially the chase is from A - N. If one step is done the indication light for this step will quit running. − MICROBEAST PLUS: Initially the chase is from H - N (Stick calibration). Only if this step is finished the chase from A - G (Sensor calibration) will start. − − When LEDs A - G do not quit running − * The sensors register movement and calibration of rest position can not be finished. Make sure the unit/the helicopter does not get moved e.g. by wind gusts or people leaning on your work bench where the heli is standing on. − * Sensors damaged. Return the device for repair. − * Power supply voltage is dropping due to weak power supply or damaged servos. − − When LEDs H - N do not quit running − * Check whether the receiver sends out control signals and that all cables are properly connected to the MICROBEAST/MICROBEAST PLUS. In particular make sure the plugs are inserted with correct polarity and not offset to the pin connectors of the MICROBEAST. − − * Is the correct type of receiver selected in the [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Receiver_setup_intro|receiver setup menu]]? Particularly when using a Spektrum® radio system note that receivers like Spektrum® AR6100, 7000, 9000 etc. are "Standard" receivers! The selection of "Spektrum®" in the receiver setup menu only applies for direct connection of one single Spektrum satellite with the optional available adapter. In general when using a serial-wire receiver check if the Status-LED lights up in "blue" color at [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Receiver_setup_menu_B|Receiver setup menu point '''B''']] indicating there is a valid signal coming from the receiver. − * When using a Standard receiver check the wiring. Mainly check receiver wires for polarity on both sides and correct plugging (no vertical offset by one pin). − * MICROBEAST/MICROBEAST PLUS: Check binding between transmitter and receiver. − * AR7200BX/AR7300BX: Check binding between transmitter and receiver.<br /> − <br /> − − ===The brand new MICROBEAST only shows a red flashing LED or even nothing. What's wrong?=== − − Check very carefully whether all cables are plugged in correctly and all the plugs are connected properly at the correct position (Beast & receiver!). Especially in the vertical direction, not just 2 pins must sit on the header. Also make sure that the polarity is correct on all connections.<br /> Line 121:
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__TOC__
__TOC__
{{DISPLAYTITLE:General MICROBEAST/MICROBEAST PLUS FAQ|noerror}}
<br />
==General questions==
===Which servos can be used with MICROBEAST PLUS===
A rule of thumb to find well suited servos for you flybarless helicopter: '''As strong as necessary, as fast as possible.'''<br />
<br />
Servo torque in kg/cm should be at least 2-3 times the heli weight (in kilogram). Speed should be at least 0.1s/45°. The faster the better. In addition the servo should be very precise, have little gear backlash and a low deadband. And of course it should be a digital servo that supports high frame rates (200Hz or more). Also using special heli servos which are designed for maximum vibration resistance is a good choice.<br />
<br />
Note that all the speed is useless if the torque is not enough. In doubt when two servos of a series are only slightly different in speed and torque, normaly the more powerful is in advantage.<br />
<br />
Anyhow, if in doubt ask the manufacturer of the servo if it can be used in combination with flybarless/gyro systems. Not all servos can handle the additional stress of getting different control signals every few milliseconds. Also it must be said that not all servos can be used at maximum frequency even if so it is told on the servo's data sheet. Depending on air temperature, voltage level and heli size it is possible that servos can not be driven at their limit as the servo motor or electronics may heat up too much.'<br />
<br />
===MICROBEAST PLUS vs. MICROBEAST PLUS HD===
''I intend to use the MICROBEAST PLUS on my 600/700 heli. Should I go with the HD version''<br />
Today's servos and especially socalled high voltage servos typically have a very high power consumption. When using Futaba BLS 451 servos for example these are very modest. Savox 1258/Align DS610 are much more demanding, one alone taking up to 15Amps peak for the instance of a second. And for very extreme example take high voltage Savox servos SB-2271SG HV. They demand up to 27Amps (1 Servo!) peak which you can see when measure the power consumption with an oscilloscope.<br />
<br />
So besides using a good stable and high rated power supply you have to ensure proper supply of the servos with this power. But when only connecting one servo plug with power leads into the receiver this may insufficient and cause a "bottle neck" in power flow. Also when the current must take a long way through the receiver, the wiring and the Microbeast, this will produce high resistance due to the connections in between and additional loss of voltage. There is no benefit if the power supply/BEC itself can deliver 20-25A when this amount of current is not able to flow to the consumers.<br />
<br />
So the idea behind MICROBEAST PLUS HD is to provide a power connection that allows for using thick power cables and directly connect these to the unit, so the voltage loss due to wiring and plug connection is reduced to a minimum. In general for helis with standard size servo you should always use MICROBEAST PLUS HD, because this will eleminate the "servo plug problem" as one important factor that may be critical for your power supply.<br />
<br />
Anyhow, it mainly depends on how you power your system. I.e. when using an ESC with only one bec line (and if this works without issues), then there will no benefit of using the HD version as you already have a "bottle neck" at the power output. The small wire will not be able to transfer more than 5 Amps continous current. Connecting this little wire to MICROBEAST's HD input will not help very much here.<br />
<br />
If on the other hand you have at least two or even three BEC lines then this can be different as you may solder the power wires from the BEC together to the MICROBEAST PLUS HD high power plug. Then you have a much lower contact resistance compared to only connect the wires using the standard servo plugs, which is a real benefit for providing a stable power supply. Ideally you have a BEC or receiver battery that already comes with thick power wires. Here it is ideal to use MICROBEAST PLUS HD.<br />
<br />
When using a separate receiver battery i.e. on nitro or gas helis using MICROBEAST PLUS HD is the ideal way to connect the battery to your rc system. In addition to the adequate connection plug here you have an integrated switch system for switching the heli on and off, so there is no need to buy an extra switch.'<br />
<br />
===MICROBEAST/MICROBEAST PLUS with single Spektrum remote satelite on large helis===
''Why is using a single Spektrum remote satelite directly connected to MICROBEAST/MICROBEAST PLUS only recommended for helis smaller than 450 size?''<br />
We say it is not safe to use a single remote satelite on anything bigger than TRex 450 size as the chassis on larger helis may hide the satelite in different flight situations. So you will loose direct sight between TX and RX more easily on larger helis. Additionaly with larger helis typically you fly further away than with small helis, so this doubles the risk of loosing the RF link when the satelite antenna is hidden. Using an EU Version of the Spektrum TX it is very likely the rf link may get disturbed in such situations as these radios do not have so much rf power output. If using an US version of the Spektrum radio with 300mW output power this can be different though. But also here we can't give a general rule, as the quality of rf link depends on many other factors like such mentioned above (Where is the satelite placed? Is direct sight to the TX in any flight condition guranteed? How far do you fly away? Are there obstacles in your flying field like tress or houses? ...). So it's hard to give a definitive limit and we only recommend to use this setup on small helis as this can be considered as safe application.<br />
<br />
==Startup==
===MICROBEAST does not finish initialization. What can I do?===
Watch the running LED lights during the init phase: If the lights A - G light up the sensor's rest positions are beeing calibrated, H - N show determining the RC channels and their center positions.
MICROBEAST/AR7x00BX: Initially the chase is from A - N. If one step is done the indication light for this step will quit running.
MICROBEAST PLUS: Initially the chase is from H - N (Stick calibration). Only if this step is finished the chase from A - G (Sensor calibration) will start.
When LEDs A - G do not quit running
* The sensors register movement and calibration of rest position can not be finished. Make sure the unit/the helicopter does not get moved e.g. by wind gusts or people leaning on your work bench where the heli is standing on.
* Sensors damaged. Return the device for repair.
* Power supply voltage is dropping due to weak power supply or damaged servos.
When LEDs H - N do not quit running
* Check whether the receiver sends out control signals and that all cables are properly connected to the MICROBEAST/MICROBEAST PLUS. In particular make sure the plugs are inserted with correct polarity and not offset to the pin connectors of the MICROBEAST.
* Is the correct type of receiver selected in the [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Receiver_setup_intro|receiver setup menu]]? Particularly when using a Spektrum® radio system note that receivers like Spektrum® AR6100, 7000, 9000 etc. are "Standard" receivers! The selection of "Spektrum®" in the receiver setup menu only applies for direct connection of one single Spektrum satellite with the optional available adapter. In general when using a serial-wire receiver check if the Status-LED lights up in "blue" color at [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Receiver_setup_menu_B|Receiver setup menu point '''B''']] indicating there is a valid signal coming from the receiver.
* When using a Standard receiver check the wiring. Mainly check receiver wires for polarity on both sides and correct plugging (no vertical offset by one pin).
* MICROBEAST/MICROBEAST PLUS: Check binding between transmitter and receiver.
* AR7200BX/AR7300BX: Check binding between transmitter and receiver.<br />
<br />
===The brand new MICROBEAST only shows a red flashing LED or even nothing. What's wrong?===
Check very carefully whether all cables are plugged in correctly and all the plugs are connected properly at the correct position (Beast & receiver!). Especially in the vertical direction, not just 2 pins must sit on the header. Also make sure that the polarity is correct on all connections.<br />
<br />
{{DISPLAYTITLE:FAQs and troubleshooting|noerror}}
{{DISPLAYTITLE:FAQs and troubleshooting|noerror}}
==Receiver menu==
==Receiver menu==
Anyhow, the color is not a fixed value that is a must to reach. If you get blue you have something similar to 80% usable servo throw. The further you can go the higher the value will be. So everything from blue upwards will give a good resolution and you won't feel any disadvantages. If using good, precise high class servos, strong and with fast speed you even can fly with only red LED without any noticeable difference. Also rotorblades (flybarless blades or not) can make a difference.
Anyhow, the color is not a fixed value that is a must to reach. If you get blue you have something similar to 80% usable servo throw. The further you can go the higher the value will be. So everything from blue upwards will give a good resolution and you won't feel any disadvantages. If using good, precise high class servos, strong and with fast speed you even can fly with only red LED without any noticeable difference. Also rotorblades (flybarless blades or not) can make a difference.
On a 250 or 450 size heli you should try to get "dark blue" at exactly 6.0° as here servos normaly are not so precise.<br />
On a 250 or 450 size heli you should try to get "dark blue" at exactly 6.0° as here servos normaly are not so precise.<br />
<br />
<br />
* Tail gyro gain too low. Increase tail gyro gain as described [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Flying|here]] and make sure you're using the tail gyro in HeadingLock mode (using Normal-Rate mode it is nearly impossible to perform backwards maneuvers!).
* Tail gyro gain too low. Increase tail gyro gain as described [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Flying|here]] and make sure you're using the tail gyro in HeadingLock mode (using Normal-Rate mode it is nearly impossible to perform backwards maneuvers!).
* No sufficient thrust produced by the tail rotor. Check tail pitch angles. Reduce the maximum amount of available tail pitch throw at [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Setupmenu_E|Setup menu point '''E''']] to prevent the tail blades from stalling or increase the tail pitch angle if it‘s too small. Use different (larger) tail rotor blades or increase the rotor rpm.<br />
* No sufficient thrust produced by the tail rotor. Check tail pitch angles. Reduce the maximum amount of available tail pitch throw at [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Setupmenu_E|Setup menu point '''E''']] to prevent the tail blades from stalling or increase the tail pitch angle if it‘s too small. Use different (larger) tail rotor blades or increase the rotor rpm.<br />
<br />
===The tail oscillates in horizontal position slowly and irregularly while hovering.===
* The HeadingLock gain of the tail gyro is too high. Reduce the HeadingLock gain in [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Parameter_menu_D|Parameter menu point D]] by one step and increase the tail gain on your transmitter instead.
* Due to mechanical issues the tail gyro can not work precisely. Check the linkage and mechanics for absolute free movement without hard points and use a dedicated rudder servo that is fast and accurate and that allows a high control frequency.<br />
<br />
===During slow hovering pirouettes the helicopter is rolling out.===
The pirouette optimization setting may be wrong.
* MICROBEAST/AR7x00BX: Adjust the pirouette optimization at Setup menu point '''N''' correctly.
* MICROBEAST PLUS: Check if mounting orientation is setup correctly at [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Setupmenu_A|Setup menu point '''A''']].<br />
<br />
<br />
{{QUOTE|'''Please do not confuse:''' A slight tilt of the swash plate when the heli is standing on the ground is absolutely normal when the so-called integrators are not fully discharged. Especially when carrying the heli or steering the sticks this can happen as the system tries to perform the necessary commands. But as the helicopter will not move as intended the system tries to keep the servo movement until the helicopter may turn. Only after approx. 30 seconds without moving the helicopter or touching the sticks, the swash will return to its normal position as the systems slowly clears its memory. The exact amount of time for this depends on the position of the thrust stick. In the middle position is the discharge at the fastest. So if possible always keep the thrust stick in center position when the heli is on the ground so that the swash plate stays leveled. Once the helicopter is airborne you will not see any of these effects as now the control loop can operate as intended. As described [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Flying|here]] to center the swashplate you can also move the cyclic stick(s) to full deflection once as this will clear integrator instantly. Only if the swash moves downright by itself to full-stop even after correcting with the sticks and only cycling power off and on resolves this problem, check that your transmitter does not send any unwanted control commands (trimming active, stick pots worn out, ...). If this is not the case please contact support as maybe there is some problem with the sensors then.}}<br />
{{QUOTE|'''Please do not confuse:''' A slight tilt of the swash plate when the heli is standing on the ground is absolutely normal when the so-called integrators are not fully discharged. Especially when carrying the heli or steering the sticks this can happen as the system tries to perform the necessary commands. But as the helicopter will not move as intended the system tries to keep the servo movement until the helicopter may turn. Only after approx. 30 seconds without moving the helicopter or touching the sticks, the swash will return to its normal position as the systems slowly clears its memory. The exact amount of time for this depends on the position of the thrust stick. In the middle position is the discharge at the fastest. So if possible always keep the thrust stick in center position when the heli is on the ground so that the swash plate stays leveled. Once the helicopter is airborne you will not see any of these effects as now the control loop can operate as intended. As described [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Flying|here]] to center the swashplate you can also move the cyclic stick(s) to full deflection once as this will clear integrator instantly. Only if the swash moves downright by itself to full-stop even after correcting with the sticks and only cycling power off and on resolves this problem, check that your transmitter does not send any unwanted control commands (trimming active, stick pots worn out, ...). If this is not the case please contact support as maybe there is some problem with the sensors then.}}<br />
===Status-LED flashes in operation mode, i.e. after landing.===
The flashing Status-LED shows that a software-reset occurred during operation.
* The receiver power supply does not seem to be sufficient. The voltage during operation dropped in a critical area (<3.5 Volts). Use a stable power supply and make sure that the wiring and plugs are dimensioned big enough and feature low contact resistance. On large helicopters we recommend to use the MICROBEAST PLUS HD or AR7300BX unit with high power input.
* A reset can be triggered due to a transfer of high voltage. Take measures to prevent static discharges.<br />
<br />
==Further observations==
==Further observations==
When using an EU Version of the Spektrum TX we say it is not safe to use a single satellite on anything greater than Trex 450 size as the chassis on larger helis may hide the satellite in different positions. So you will loose direct sight between TX and RX more easily. Additonaly with larger helis typically you fly further away than with small helis, so this doubles the risk of loosing the RF link. When using a US version of the Spektrum radio with 300mW output power this can be different as this radio by default has much higher output power than the EU radios. But as said this also depends on many factors (Where is the satellite placed? Does it give direct sight to the TX in any flight condition? How far do you fly away? Are there obstacles in your flying field like tress or houses? ...). So it's hard to give a definitive limit. That's why we only recommend to use this setup on small helis as this can be considered as safe application.<br />
When using an EU Version of the Spektrum TX we say it is not safe to use a single satellite on anything greater than Trex 450 size as the chassis on larger helis may hide the satellite in different positions. So you will loose direct sight between TX and RX more easily. Additonaly with larger helis typically you fly further away than with small helis, so this doubles the risk of loosing the RF link. When using a US version of the Spektrum radio with 300mW output power this can be different as this radio by default has much higher output power than the EU radios. But as said this also depends on many factors (Where is the satellite placed? Does it give direct sight to the TX in any flight condition? How far do you fly away? Are there obstacles in your flying field like tress or houses? ...). So it's hard to give a definitive limit. That's why we only recommend to use this setup on small helis as this can be considered as safe application.<br />
<br />
<br />
===My servos are getting warm/hot, is this normal?===
===My servos are getting warm/hot, is this normal?===