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{{DISPLAYTITLE:FAQs and troubleshooting|noerror}}

{{DISPLAYTITLE:FAQs and troubleshooting|noerror}}

==General questions==

==General questions==

===The AR7200BX that came with my Blade helicopter is not supported in StudioX===  

===The AR7200BX that came with my Blade helicopter is not supported in StudioX===  

AR7200BX with special Blade firmware on can't be programmed using StudioX as they are configured specificaly for the helicopter they are installed on. Nevertheless, you can update the firmware using StudioX and make a "full" AR7200BX out of it, so that it can be used with StudioX. But note that you’ll have to use the original AR7200BX manual to setup the device in future. A factory reset will NOT revert to the Blade preset then!<br />

AR7200BX with special Blade firmware on can't be programmed using StudioX as they are configured specifically for the helicopter they are installed on. Nevertheless, you can update the firmware using StudioX and make a "full" AR7200BX out of it, so that it can be used with StudioX. But note that you’ll have to use the original AR7200BX manual to setup the device in future. A factory reset will NOT revert to the Blade preset then!<br />

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To keep your existing Blade settings it it important to update to firmware version 3.1.0 only, as this will not delete your setup. Once 3.1.0 is uploaded to the device, it will be recognized by StudioX and you can create restore points, change settings and more. So create a restore point of your device and then update to 4.0.14, if necessary. Updating to version 4.0.14 will reset your settings as 4.0.14 uses a new parameter set. But as you have created a restore point before, you can recover your setup and only have to setup the additional governor parameters.!<br />

To keep your existing Blade settings it it important to update to firmware version 3.1.0 only, as this will not delete your setup. Once 3.1.0 is uploaded to the device, it will be recognized by StudioX and you can create restore points, change settings and more. So create a restore point of your device and then update to 4.0.14, if necessary. Updating to version 4.0.14 will reset your settings as 4.0.14 uses a new parameter set. But as you have created a restore point before, you can recover your setup and only have to setup the additional governor parameters.!<br />

===Which servos can be used with AR7200BX/AR7300BX/AR7210BX===

===Which servos can be used with AR7200BX/AR7300BX/AR7210BX===

A rule of thumb to find well suited servos for you flybarless helicopter: '''As strong as necessary, as fast as possible, with less deadband as available.'''<br />

A rule of thumb to find well suited servos for you flybarless helicopter: '''As strong as necessary, as fast as possible, with less dead band as available.'''<br />

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Servo torque in kg/cm should be at least 3-4 times the heli weight (in kilogram). Speed should be at least 0.1s/45°. The faster the better. In addition the servo should be very precise, have little gear backlash and a low deadband. And of course it should be a digital servo that supports high frame rates (200Hz or more). Also using special heli servos which are designed for maximum vibration resistance is a good choice.<br />

Servo torque in kg/cm should be at least 3-4 times the heli weight (in kilogram). Speed should be at least 0.1s/45°. The faster the better. In addition the servo should be very precise, have little gear backlash and a low dead band. And of course it should be a digital servo that supports high frame rates (200Hz or more). Also using special heli servos which are designed for maximum vibration resistance is a good choice.<br />

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Note that all the speed is useless if the torque is not enough. In doubt when two servos of a series are only slightly different in speed and torque, normaly the more powerful is in advantage.<br />

Note that all the speed is useless if the torque is not enough. In doubt when two servos of a series are only slightly different in speed and torque, normally the more powerful is in advantage.<br />

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Anyhow, if in doubt ask the manufacturer of the servo if it can be used in combination with flybarless/gyro systems. Not all servos can handle the additional stress of getting different control signals every few milliseconds. Also it must be said that not all servos can be used at maximum frequency even if so it is told on the servo's data sheet. Depending on air temperature, voltage level and heli size it is possible that servos can not be driven at their limit as the servo motor or electronics may heat up too much.'<br />

Anyhow, if in doubt ask the manufacturer of the servo if it can be used in combination with flybarless/gyro systems. Not all servos can handle the additional stress of getting different control signals every few milliseconds. Also it must be said that not all servos can be used at maximum frequency even if so it is told on the servo's data sheet. Depending on air temperature, voltage level and heli size it is possible that servos can not be driven at their limit as the servo motor or electronics may heat up too much.'<br />

===AR7200BX vs. AR7300BX===

===AR7200BX vs. AR7300BX===

''I intend to use a BEASTX flybarless system on my 600/700 heli. Should I go with the AR7300BX?''<br />

''I intend to use a BEASTX flybarless system on my 600/700 heli. Should I go with the AR7300BX?''<br />

Today's servos and especially socalled high voltage servos typically have a very high power consumption. When using Futaba BLS 451 servos for example these are very modest. Savox 1258/Align DS610 are much more demanding, one alone taking up to 15Amps peak for the instance of a second. And for very extreme example take high voltage Savox servos SB-2271SG HV. They demand up to 27Amps (1 Servo!) peak which you can see when measure the power consumption with an oscilloscope.<br />

Today's servos and especially so-called high voltage servos typically have a very high power consumption. When using Futaba BLS 451 servos for example these are very modest. Savöx 1258/Align DS610 are much more demanding, one alone taking up to 15Amps peak for the instance of a second. And for very extreme example take high voltage Savöx servos SB-2271SG HV. They demand up to 27Amps (1 Servo!) peak which you can see when measure the power consumption with an oscilloscope.<br />

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So besides using a good stable and high rated power supply you have to ensure proper supply of the servos with this power. But when only connecting one servo plug with power leads into the receiver this may insufficient and cause a "bottle neck" in power flow. There is no benefit if the power supply/BEC itself can deliver 20-25A when this amount of current is not able to flow to the consumers.<br />

So besides using a good stable and high rated power supply you have to ensure proper supply of the servos with this power. But when only connecting one servo plug with power leads into the receiver this may insufficient and cause a "bottle neck" in power flow. There is no benefit if the power supply/BEC itself can deliver 20-25A when this amount of current is not able to flow to the consumers.<br />

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So the idea behind AR7300BX is to provide a power connection that allows for using thick power cables and directly connect these to the device, so the voltage loss due to wiring and plug connection is reduced to a minimum. In general for helis with standard size servo you should always use AR7300BX, because this will eleminate the "servo plug problem" as one important factor that may be critical for your power supply.<br />

So the idea behind AR7300BX is to provide a power connection that allows for using thick power cables and directly connect these to the device, so the voltage loss due to wiring and plug connection is reduced to a minimum. In general for helis with standard size servo you should always use AR7300BX, because this will eliminate the "servo plug problem" as one important factor that may be critical for your power supply.<br />

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Anyhow, it mainly depends on how you power your system. I. e. when using an ESC with only one bec line (and if this works without issues), then there will no benefit of using the AR7300BX as you already have a "bottle neck" at the power output. The small wire will not be able to transfer more than 5 Amps continous current. Connecting this little wire to AR7300BX's high power input will not help very much here.<br />

Anyhow, it mainly depends on how you power your system. I. e. when using an ESC with only one BEC line (and if this works without issues), then there will no benefit of using the AR7300BX as you already have a "bottle neck" at the power output. The small wire will not be able to transfer more than 5 Amps continuous current. Connecting this little wire to AR7300BX's high power input will not help very much here.<br />

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If on the other hand you have at least two or even three BEC lines then this can be different as you may solder the power wires from the BEC together to a EC3 high power plug. Then you have a much lower contact resistance compared to only connect the wires using the standard servo plugs, which is a real benefit for providing a stable power supply. Ideally you have a BEC or receiver battery that already comes with thick power wires. Here it is ideal to use AR7300BX.<br />

If on the other hand you have at least two or even three BEC lines then this can be different as you may solder the power wires from the BEC together to a EC3 high power plug. Then you have a much lower contact resistance compared to only connect the wires using the standard servo plugs, which is a real benefit for providing a stable power supply. Ideally you have a BEC or receiver battery that already comes with thick power wires. Here it is ideal to use AR7300BX.<br />

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When using a separate receiver battery i.e. on nitro or gas helis using AR7300BX is the ideal way to connect the battery to your rc system. In addition to the adequate connection plug here you have an integrated switch system for switching the heli on and off, so there is no need to buy an extra switch.<br />

When using a separate receiver battery i.e. on nitro or gas helis using AR7300BX is the ideal way to connect the battery to your RC system. In addition to the adequate connection plug here you have an integrated switch system for switching the heli on and off, so there is no need to buy an extra switch.<br />

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===The SPEKTRUM AR7200BX / AR7210BX / AR7300BX does not finish initialization. What can I do?===

===The SPEKTRUM AR7200BX / AR7210BX / AR7300BX does not finish initialization. What can I do?===

Watch the running LED lights during the init phase: If the lights A - G light up the sensor's rest positions are beeing calibrated, H - N show determining the RC channels and their center positions.<br />

Watch the running LED lights during the init phase: If the lights A - G light up the sensor's rest positions are being calibrated, H - N show determining the RC channels and their center positions.<br />

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AR7200BX / AR7300BX: Initially the chase is from A - N. If one step is done the indication light for this step will quit running.<br />

AR7200BX / AR7300BX: Initially the chase is from A - N. If one step is done the indication light for this step will quit running.<br />

Here you can see a list of collected data: [[The BEASTX servo list]]

Here you can see a list of collected data: [[The BEASTX servo list]]

This list is not intended to be complete or accurate! Please ask the servos manufacturer about his recommandations regarding servo specs and usability in helicopters with flybarless systems.

This list is not intended to be complete or accurate! Please ask the servos manufacturer about his recommendations regarding servo specs and usability in helicopters with flybarless systems.

* Neutral impulse: The neutral impulse normaly is 1500-1520µs on any servo. Only special high speed rudder servos use a different impulse and are normaly fitted to a specific gyro (i.e. Futaba gyros 760µs, Logictec gyros 960µs). AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX supports all types of different neutral impulses for the rudder servo. On cyclic you are not able to adjust the pulse.

* Neutral impulse: The neutral impulse normally is 1500-1520µs on any servo. Only special high speed rudder servos use a different impulse and are normally fitted to a specific gyro (i.e. Futaba gyros 760µs, Logictec gyros 960µs). AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX supports all types of different neutral impulses for the rudder servo. On cyclic you are not able to adjust the pulse.

* Update frequency: The higher the frequency the faster the control loop will work and the more accurate the system will perform. But also the servos will be more burdened as they get more work to do and the current consumption will greatly increase.

* Update frequency: The higher the frequency the faster the control loop will work and the more accurate the system will perform. But also the servos will be more burdened as they get more work to do and the current consumption will greatly increase.

: If using a digital servo it definitely should be capable of more than 65Hz. So if we have a unknown servo we carefully increase framerate step by step by testing on the workbench and then fly shortly and check servo temperature very often. If there are no abnormalities like extreme heat production we again increase the framerate and again test carefully.<br />

: If using a digital servo it definitely should be capable of more than 65Hz. So if we have a unknown servo we carefully increase frame rate step by step by testing on the workbench and then fly shortly and check servo temperature very often. If there are no abnormalities like extreme heat production we again increase the frame rate and again test carefully.<br />

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===Setup menu point G - I did adjust my swash plate with servos centered but when leaving point G the servos are not centered anymore.===

===Setup menu point G - I did adjust my swash plate with servos centered but when leaving point G the servos are not centered anymore.===

'''At Setup menu point G make sure you adjust your mechanical setup while electric trimming is active (Status LED is lit up in some color)!''' You mustn't do any adjustment while the system shows "reference position" (Status LED off at step G). This is only for finding the servos' true center positions (i.e. for attaching the servo arms to the servos) but is not used in any other way. If your servo arms are perfectly aligned in this postion check electrical trimming anyway and readjust if necessary. Only the servo positions you see in trim mode (when the Status LED is lit up in some color at Setup step G) show the center positions that are used later onwards during setup and in operation as trimming will always be added to the servo output!

'''At Setup menu point G make sure you adjust your mechanical setup while electric trimming is active (Status LED is lit up in some color)!''' You mustn't do any adjustment while the system shows "reference position" (Status LED off at step G). This is only for finding the servos' true center positions (i.e. for attaching the servo arms to the servos) but is not used in any other way. If your servo arms are perfectly aligned in this position check electrical trimming anyway and readjust if necessary. Only the servo positions you see in trim mode (when the Status LED is lit up in some color at Setup step G) show the center positions that are used later onwards during setup and in operation as trimming will always be added to the servo output!

===Setup menu point J - Adjust left or right or both directions? ===

===Setup menu point J - Adjust left or right or both directions? ===

===Setup menu point J - I don't get blue color at 6 degrees===

===Setup menu point J - I don't get blue color at 6 degrees===

When getting the 6° too early this shows that you may not use full servo resolution (not using the full throw). This can be solved by using longer blade grip linkage arms, reducing the swashplate inner diameter (shorter linkage balls) or larger swahplate outer diameter (longer linkage balls). Or simply by screwing the linkage balls on the servo horns further in (but this will reduce both cyclic and collective - the cyclic/collective ratio will not change).

When getting the 6° too early this shows that you may not use full servo resolution (not using the full throw). This can be solved by using longer blade grip linkage arms, reducing the swashplate inner diameter (shorter linkage balls) or larger swashplate outer diameter (longer linkage balls). Or simply by screwing the linkage balls on the servo horns further in (but this will reduce both cyclic and collective - the cyclic/collective ratio will not change).

Anyhow, the color is not a fixed value that is a must to reach. If you get blue you have something similar to 80% usable servo throw. The further you can go the higher the value will be. So everything from blue upwards will give a good resolution and you won't feel any disadvantages. If using good, precise high class servos, strong and with fast speed you even can fly with only red LED without any noticeable difference. Also rotorblades (flybarless blades or not) can make a difference.

Anyhow, the color is not a fixed value that is a must to reach. If you get blue you have something similar to 80% usable servo throw. The further you can go the higher the value will be. So everything from blue upwards will give a good resolution and you won't feel any disadvantages. If using good, precise high class servos, strong and with fast speed you even can fly with only red LED without any noticeable difference. Also rotorblades (flybarless blades or not) can make a difference.

On a 250 or 450 size heli you should try to get "dark blue" at exactly 6.0° as here servos normaly are not so precise.<br />

On a 250 or 450 size heli you should try to get "dark blue" at exactly 6.0° as here servos normally are not so precise.<br />

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==Inflight==  

==In flight==  

===The gyro sensors do not seem to work correctly.===

===The gyro sensors do not seem to work correctly.===

Maybe the gain of tail gyro is too low.

Maybe the gain of tail gyro is too low.

* Check assignment of gain channel and adjust the gain in the transmitter as described [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Flying|->here]].

* Check assignment of gain channel and adjust the gain in the transmitter as described [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Flying|->here]].

* Additionaly when the elevator doesn't seem to work either, maybe the wrong mounting orientation has been selected. So select the correct mounting orientation in Setup menu point '''A'''.<br />

* Additionally when the elevator doesn't seem to work either, maybe the wrong mounting orientation has been selected. So select the correct mounting orientation in Setup menu point '''A'''.<br />

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===How can I increase rotation rate for aileron, elevator and rudder?===

===How can I increase rotation rate for aileron, elevator and rudder?===

The rotation speed of the helicopter is only determined by the length of the stick output signal. The gyros measure the actual rotation rate and the system will move the helicopter as fast as it is determined by the stick position. So simply increasing/decreasing the stick throw (mostly done by increasing/decreasing servo throw or using Dualrate in the TX for the specified function) will increase/decrease rotation rate. Note that the rotation rate in first line has nothing to do with your cyclic pitch adjustments at Setup menu points J or L and also has nothing to do with the cyclic pitch when steering cyclic on the ground! In flight the system will automaticaly control the pitch as it is necessary to maintain the given rate. So always setup the cyclic pitch as mentioned in the manual and do not rely on what you see when moving the sticks on the ground.

The rotation speed of the helicopter is only determined by the length of the stick output signal. The gyros measure the actual rotation rate and the system will move the helicopter as fast as it is determined by the stick position. So simply increasing/decreasing the stick throw (mostly done by increasing/decreasing servo throw or using DualRate in the TX for the specified function) will increase/decrease rotation rate. Note that the rotation rate in first line has nothing to do with your cyclic pitch adjustments at Setup menu points J or L and also has nothing to do with the cyclic pitch when steering cyclic on the ground! In flight the system will automatically control the pitch as it is necessary to maintain the given rate. So always setup the cyclic pitch as mentioned in the manual and do not rely on what you see when moving the sticks on the ground.

The presets at Parameter menu point B are nothing else than different preset dualrate/expo curves inside the device. Choose the preset that fits your preferences best and that gives you a good amount of rotation rate. Using the presets (except for the "Transmitter" preset) it is recommended to not change the output signal in the TX significantly as especially when using expo this will bend, compress or stretch the curves, leading to very strange flight behavior. It just is not like adding 5% of expo as the curves between TX and AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX will multiply and not sum together! Anyhow you may do small adjustments in stick throw, i.e. for slightly increasing the roll rate. This will not significantly deform the internal curves of AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX.

The presets at Parameter menu point B are nothing else than different preset DualRate/Expo curves inside the device. Choose the preset that fits your preferences best and that gives you a good amount of rotation rate. Using the presets (except for the "Transmitter" preset) it is recommended to not change the output signal in the TX significantly as especially when using expo this will bend, compress or stretch the curves, leading to very strange flight behavior. It just is not like adding 5% of expo as the curves between TX and AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX will multiply and not sum together! Anyhow you may do small adjustments in stick throw, i.e. for slightly increasing the roll rate. This will not significantly deform the internal curves of AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX.

But easiest thing to do would be to switch flight behaviour to preset blue (="Transmitter") and adjust the curves in your transmitter just as you like. Therefor we suggest to start with a setting of 70% D/R and 25% expo on cylic and 85% D/R and 40% expo on tail in the transmitter and adjust the curves accordingly. When setting parameter B to "blue = TX" the internal curves will be "disabled". Here 100% stick input will give a rotation rate of apprx. 600deg/s on the rudder axis and apprx. 400deg/s for the cyclic movements (this may vary depending on TX brand as any manufacturer use another signal output as maximum, so this also can be 107, 110% or  95%).

But easiest thing to do would be to switch flight behavior to preset blue (="Transmitter") and adjust the curves in your transmitter just as you like. Therefor we suggest to start with a setting of 70% D/R and 25% expo on cyclic and 85% D/R and 40% expo on tail in the transmitter and adjust the curves accordingly. When setting parameter B to "blue = TX" the internal curves will be "disabled". Here 100% stick input will give a rotation rate of apprx. 600deg/s on the rudder axis and apprx. 400deg/s for the cyclic movements (this may vary depending on TX brand as any manufacturer use another signal output as maximum, so this also can be 107, 110% or  95%).

We are often asked which percentages of expo or dual rate corresponds to the different presets. As manufacturers calculate expo curves different, we can't tell you what our preset curves correspond to which TXs expo values as we use our own expo calculation and there is no data available for comparing. We did outfly these values and programmed them in the source code so we can't tell what these are in Futaba or JR percentages. If you want to use a specific preset as your starting point we suggest to connect your AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX to the StudioX software. Here you can see the different values for each control behavior preset and you can create a custom preset for which you may use the given values and adjust them until they perfectly fit your flying style.<br />

We are often asked which percentages of expo or dual rate corresponds to the different presets. As manufacturers calculate expo curves different, we can't tell you what our preset curves correspond to which TXs expo values as we use our own expo calculation and there is no data available for comparing. We did out fly these values and programmed them in the source code so we can't tell what these are in Futaba or JR percentages. If you want to use a specific preset as your starting point we suggest to connect your AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX to the StudioX software. Here you can see the different values for each control behavior preset and you can create a custom preset for which you may use the given values and adjust them until they perfectly fit your flying style.<br />

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{{QUOTE|'''Note for AR7200BX/Ar7300BX (not AR7210BX):''' If Parameter menu point '''B''' is set to preset "blue" and the tail gain is switched to heading lock mode you can see in operation mode by the Status LED state at which tail stick position the maximum possible rotation rate on rudder will be reached: At that specific tail stick position the Status LED will start to flash. Moving the stick to this point in flight the rotation rate of the helicopter will be as high as the gyro can control. Increasing the stick throw further the LED will go off. At this point the rate control is switched off and the rudder axis will spin uncontrolled. Here the only limit is the tail pitch throw and normaly the tail will spin ultra fast. This can be used for performing tail slides or turns with very fast spinning tail. For normal flying around you should not use this as you may accidentaly steer into the uncontrolled area and the tail may spin too fast or very uneven. So please check on the ground that the Status LED will not go off when giving full rudder stick deflection in your default flight modes.}}<br />

{{QUOTE|'''Note for AR7200BX/Ar7300BX (not AR7210BX):''' If Parameter menu point '''B''' is set to preset "blue" and the tail gain is switched to heading lock mode you can see in operation mode by the Status LED state at which tail stick position the maximum possible rotation rate on rudder will be reached: At that specific tail stick position the Status LED will start to flash. Moving the stick to this point in flight the rotation rate of the helicopter will be as high as the gyro can control. Increasing the stick throw further the LED will go off. At this point the rate control is switched off and the rudder axis will spin uncontrolled. Here the only limit is the tail pitch throw and normally the tail will spin ultra fast. This can be used for performing tail slides or turns with very fast spinning tail. For normal flying around you should not use this as you may accidentally steer into the uncontrolled area and the tail may spin too fast or very uneven. So please check on the ground that the Status LED will not go off when giving full rudder stick deflection in your default flight modes.}}<br />

===The helicopter wobbles on aileron and elevator axis.===

===The helicopter wobbles on aileron and elevator axis.===

''Reducing the swashplate gain does not help to suppress this effect completely.''<br />

''Reducing the swashplate gain does not help to suppress this effect completely.''<br />

* The helicopter‘s linkage ratio is not suitable for flybarless usage. In Setup menu point J adjust the cyclic pitch to exactly 6 degrees and make sure the color of the Status-LED lights up “blue”. If this is not the case change the mechanical linkage ratio of the helicopter (i.e. by moving the linkage balls further inwards on the servo horns, by mounting longer linkage balls on the swash plate outer ring or by mounting shorter linkage balls on the swash plate inner ring).

* The helicopter's linkage ratio is not suitable for flybarless usage. In Setup menu point J adjust the cyclic pitch to exactly 6 degrees and make sure the color of the Status-LED lights up “blue”. If this is not the case change the mechanical linkage ratio of the helicopter (i.e. by moving the linkage balls further inwards on the servo horns, by mounting longer linkage balls on the swash plate outer ring or by mounting shorter linkage balls on the swash plate inner ring).

* The servo-blade combination is not good. Use faster and stronger servos and/or specific flybarless blades.

* The servo-blade combination is not good. Use faster and stronger servos and/or specific flybarless blades.

* Some linkages aren’t moving smoothly and freely. Check the mechanics for any hard points (ball linkages, blade grips). Check if the dampers are greased and that the thrust bearings in the blade grips are correctly mounted.

* Some linkages aren’t moving smoothly and freely. Check the mechanics for any hard points (ball linkages, blade grips). Check if the dampers are greased and that the thrust bearings in the blade grips are correctly mounted.

===The tail rotor turns around instantly when doing backwards flying.===

===The tail rotor turns around instantly when doing backwards flying.===

* Tail gyro gain too low. Increase tail gyro gain as described [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Flying|->here]] and make sure you're using the tail gyro in HeadingLock mode (using Normal-Rate mode it is nearly impossible to perform backwards maneuvers!).

* Tail gyro gain too low. Increase tail gyro gain as described [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Flying|->here]] and make sure you're using the tail gyro in HeadingLock mode (using Normal-Rate mode it is nearly impossible to perform backwards maneuvers!).

* No sufficient thrust produced by the tail rotor. Check tail pitch angles. Reduce the maximum amount of available tail pitch throw at [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Setupmenu_E|Setup menu point '''E''']] to prevent the tail blades from stalling or increase the tail pitch angle if it‘s too small. Use different (larger) tail rotor blades or increase the rotor rpm.<br />

* No sufficient thrust produced by the tail rotor. Check tail pitch angles. Reduce the maximum amount of available tail pitch throw at [[Manuals:MB_Plus:Setupmenu_E|Setup menu point '''E''']] to prevent the tail blades from stalling or increase the tail pitch angle if it's too small. Use different (larger) tail rotor blades or increase the rotor rpm.<br />

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* Tilting in flight: Remove the main rotor blades and let the helicopter run in all speeds on the ground (beware of the rotating parts!). Again the swash should move straight up and down when giving pitch inputs. If at a certain speed it starts to tilt in one direction and this will depend on the rotor speed then that is almost certainly a vibration problem which confuses the sensors of AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX. Trying different adhesive pads might help (smoother or firmer mount) or installing the device in another location. But especially in the electric helicopter that brings in most cases nothing and there certainly is an error somewhere on the helicopter.

* Tilting in flight: Remove the main rotor blades and let the helicopter run in all speeds on the ground (beware of the rotating parts!). Again the swash should move straight up and down when giving pitch inputs. If at a certain speed it starts to tilt in one direction and this will depend on the rotor speed then that is almost certainly a vibration problem which confuses the sensors of AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX. Trying different adhesive pads might help (smoother or firmer mount) or installing the device in another location. But especially in the electric helicopter that brings in most cases nothing and there certainly is an error somewhere on the helicopter.

: This can be: slightly bent hub of the tail rotor, jammed or defective ball bearings, tail blades / tail rotor is not properly balanced, engine bell not balanced / comes at a certain speed to vibrate or motor bearings damaged making the motor shaft vibrate, slipped ball bearings in the torque tube tail drive system or installed in the wrong position, main gear wobbles / unbalanced; motor shaft bends and runs rough, ... actually everything that rotates on the helicopter can be the cause of such a vibration. On electric helicopter you normaly should not hear, feel or see any mayor vibration (no vibrating tail fin or skids). Then it should normally be possible to attach the AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX only with a very thin adhesive pad on electric helis. On nitro helis the situation can be slightly different as the motors do shake the more or less. This can lead to shaking of the AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX device itself and will make the rotor pane wobble. So here trying different pads or a sandwich made of two pads and a metal plate may help to stabilize the unit better. Also the wiring can be the cause of such a shaking. But when the swash tilts as explained above the cause normaly is some very high frequent (abnormal) vibration and trying around with different kinds of gyro pads only disguises the real cause and may not help 100%.

: This can be: slightly bent hub of the tail rotor, jammed or defective ball bearings, tail blades / tail rotor is not properly balanced, engine bell not balanced / comes at a certain speed to vibrate or motor bearings damaged making the motor shaft vibrate, slipped ball bearings in the torque tube tail drive system or installed in the wrong position, main gear wobbles / unbalanced; motor shaft bends and runs rough, ... actually everything that rotates on the helicopter can be the cause of such a vibration. On electric helicopter you normally should not hear, feel or see any mayor vibration (no vibrating tail fin or skids). Then it should normally be possible to attach the AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX only with a very thin adhesive pad on electric helis. On nitro helis the situation can be slightly different as the motors do shake the more or less. This can lead to shaking of the AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX device itself and will make the rotor pane wobble. So here trying different pads or a sandwich made of two pads and a metal plate may help to stabilize the unit better. Also the wiring can be the cause of such a shaking. But when the swash tilts as explained above the cause normally is some very high frequent (abnormal) vibration and trying around with different kinds of gyro pads only disguises the real cause and may not help 100%.

* Is the movement, however, abruptly or suddenly (similar to the twitch in a radio interference) this can especially be caused by static charges from the rear belt. Here a uniform electric potential across the entire helicopter should be done. The use of graphite spray, using a different rear belt or simply changing the belt tension can help.

* Is the movement, however, abruptly or suddenly (similar to the twitch in a radio interference) this can especially be caused by static charges from the rear belt. Here a uniform electric potential across the entire helicopter should be done. The use of graphite spray, using a different rear belt or simply changing the belt tension can help.

===My servos are getting warm/hot, is this normal?===

===My servos are getting warm/hot, is this normal?===

Similar to a tail gyro a flybarless system is constantly working and correcting. So the servos are moving much more frequently than if ther are controlled manually. Additionaly to that the servos are usually driven with higher frequency to enable the system giving commands to the servos as often and quick as possible. And because of the abolition of mixing levers and the support of the auxiliary rotor plane the servos have to resist higher forces in flight.

Similar to a tail gyro a flybarless system is constantly working and correcting. So the servos are moving much more frequently than if they're controlled manually. Additionally to that the servos are usually driven with higher frequency to enable the system giving commands to the servos as often and quick as possible. And because of the abolition of mixing levers and the support of the auxiliary rotor plane the servos have to resist higher forces in flight.

This results to a higher power consumption and a stronger heat generation which is usually not critical. However under adverse conditions this can reach a critical range (e.g. at very high air temperatures or even if the servos are installed near other heat sources such as electric motors). In this case try reducing the driving frequency and/or the input voltage.<br />

This results to a higher power consumption and a stronger heat generation which is usually not critical. However under adverse conditions this can reach a critical range (e.g. at very high air temperatures or even if the servos are installed near other heat sources such as electric motors). In this case try reducing the driving frequency and/or the input voltage.<br />

===Servos react somehow "notchy" at high frame rate. Is AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX damaging my servos?===

===Servos react somehow "notchy" at high frame rate. Is AR7200BX/AR7210BX/AR7300BX damaging my servos?===

If the servos are approved by the manufacturer for the chosen update frequency, this is a normal effect. The servos get new positioning signals four times faster than if they are connected to a conventional remote control receiver. Especially servos with brushless motors run very hard and direct which causes slightly jerky movements in modes with high servo framerate. This is totally harmless to the servos and you will not notice in flight operation.<br />

If the servos are approved by the manufacturer for the chosen update frequency, this is a normal effect. The servos get new positioning signals four times faster than if they are connected to a conventional remote control receiver. Especially servos with brushless motors run very hard and direct which causes slightly jerky movements in modes with high servo frame rate. This is totally harmless to the servos and you will not notice in flight operation.<br />

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===RPM Governor - What is this and what does it?===

===RPM Governor - What is this and what does it?===

===How can I get the Version 4.x.x ProEdition upgrade with AttitudeControl (Rescue bail out)? What does it cost?===

===How can I get the Version 4.x.x ProEdition upgrade with AttitudeControl (Rescue bail out)? What does it cost?===

To upgrade your SPEKTRUM AR7210BX you need the latest StudioX Software. This allows to connect to the freakware Network and register your device to your personal account when you connect it to the computer. Then all available updates and upgrades for the device will be displayed individually.<br />

To upgrade your SPEKTRUM AR7210BX you need the latest StudioX Software. This allows to connect to the freakware Network and register your device to your personal account when you connect it to the computer. Then all available updates and upgrades for the device will be displayed individually.<br />

<p>Regular device updates are free of charge. For upgrades that enable new functionality we may charge some fee. You can see the prices and buy them directly from StudioX. Available upgrades and prices also can be checked at the [[BEASTX_Devices/en|product overview page]].</p>

Regular device updates are free of charge. For upgrades that enable new functionality we may charge some fee. You can see the prices and buy them directly from StudioX. Available upgrades and prices also can be checked at the [[BEASTX_Devices/en|product overview page]].<br />

<p>Please have a look [[StudioX_UpdateInstructions/en|here]] if you need further information about the update/upgrade process.</p>

Please have a look [[StudioX_UpdateInstructions/en|here]] if you need further information about the update/upgrade process.<br />

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===Is AttitudeControl (Rescue bail out) also available for the SPEKTRUM AR7200BX/AR7300BX?===

===Is AttitudeControl (Rescue bail out) also available for the SPEKTRUM AR7200BX/AR7300BX?===

<p>No, unfortunately this features can only be offered for AR7210BX and MICROBEAST PLUS / MICROBEAST PLUS HD. Older devices can't be used due to limitations of the hardware.<br />

No, unfortunately this features can only be offered for AR7210BX and MICROBEAST PLUS / MICROBEAST PLUS HD. Older devices can't be used due to limitations of the hardware.<br />

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===AttitudeControl can not be activated although it is switched on at Parameter menu point M===

Assign the switch channel for AttitudeControl in Function assignment menu either by moving the switch on the transmitter at menu point B or by skipping menu point B in order to use the gyro channel for the AttitudeControl.

 

===AttitudeControl can not be activated although it is switched on at Parameter menu point L===

Assign the switch channel for AttitudeControl in Function assignment menu either by moving the switch on the transmitter at menu point B or by skipping menu point B in order to use the gyro channel for the AttitudeControl.<br />

===Using the tail gyro gain to activate AttitudeControl, how can I control AttitudeControl and switch the tail gyro gain with flight mode switch?===

===Using the tail gyro gain to activate AttitudeControl, how can I control AttitudeControl and switch the tail gyro gain with flight mode switch?===

===When switching on AttitudeControl on the workbench and moving the heli by hand the servos sometimes make some jerky movements===

===When switching on AttitudeControl on the workbench and moving the heli by hand the servos sometimes make some jerky movements===

This is absolutely normal behavior as the system doesn't simply apply full aileron, elevator or pitch input. The control input works in a much more sophisticated way. There are different curves and algorithm in the software which apply control input in a very special manner so the heli will be turned and leveled without loosing height and without moving to much around as good as possible. When turning the helicopter on the workbench this can cause some oscillations or bigger steps in servo movement (servo jumping) as the helicopter does not turn the same as it would do in reality.

This is absolutely normal behavior as the system doesn't simply apply full aileron, elevator or pitch input. The control input works in a much more sophisticated way. There are different curves and algorithm in the software which apply control input in a very special manner so the heli will be turned and leveled without loosing height and without moving to much around as good as possible. When turning the helicopter on the workbench this can cause some oscillations or bigger steps in servo movement (servo jumping) as the helicopter does not turn the same as it would do in reality.<br />

===AttitudeControl does not level my helicopter perfectly===

===AttitudeControl does not level my helicopter perfectly===

* Please make sure your helicopter is running smooth and absolutely free of vibrations. Particularly with very small electric helis this is sometimes a difficult task, as there is not much mass to compensate for the vibrations and all electric components are placed very close to each other. If you see or hear any abnormalities like twitching tail or loud, vibrant noise it is very likely the AttitudeControl will not work as expected. You may try to place the AR7210BX unit at a different location on the heli or mount it with a different sort of gyro pad to compensate for those vibrations. Anyhow the best solution is to find the source of vibration, i.e. by removing tail and main blades and letting the motor run on the ground, and change defective/unbalanced parts.<br />

* Please make sure your helicopter is running smooth and absolutely free of vibrations. Particularly with very small electric helis this is sometimes a difficult task, as there is not much mass to compensate for the vibrations and all electric components are placed very close to each other. If you see or hear any abnormalities like twitching tail or loud, vibrant noise it is very likely the AttitudeControl will not work as expected. You may try to place the AR7210BX unit at a different location on the heli or mount it with a different sort of gyro pad to compensate for those vibrations. Anyhow the best solution is to find the source of vibration, i.e. by removing tail and main blades and letting the motor run on the ground, and change defective/unbalanced parts.<br />

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* High temperature changes can cause the sensors to drift and in consequence cause the artificial horizon get offset. When it's very cold outside or very hot make sure the system can acclimatize when moving the helicopter from warm to cold or from cold to warm.

* High temperature changes can cause the sensors to drift and in consequence cause the artificial horizon get offset. When it's very cold outside or very hot make sure the system can acclimatize when moving the helicopter from warm to cold or from cold to warm, before powering it up and flying.<br />

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